WHEN Sam?s Chop House swung open its doors on Leeds five years ago it was only right that it made its home in one of the city?s landmark buildings.
After all, the small independent restaurant chain can trace its history back almost 150 years ? albeit to a bustling basement bar in Manchester.
The city?s famous ?matchstick men? artist LS Lowry was a regular patron, and many a deal was struck between the city?s businessmen.
Perhaps the current owner had hoped to recreate another melting pot of characters when he reached across the Pennines and opened in Leeds?
With this in mind we headed for Pearl Chambers on a cold Friday in search of some English cooking, and a buzzy atmosphere.
A doorman helped us through two sets of doors and into the grade II listed building, located on The Headrow, but accessed from East Parade.
It was much quieter then we had anticipated ? no doubt something to do with the time of year. Nevertheless, inside, the design and decor can?t fail to impress.
Lofty ceilings are filled with elaborate multi-lamp ceiling lights. The floor is tiled in a classic black and white pattern. To the left, tall windows run the length of an elevated dining area, adorned with heavy rich-coloured curtains.
Seating is a blend of chairs and olive green leather upholstered booths, and everywhere there is dark wood. To the right, a highly polished bar greets guests with an impressive wine, spirit and ale selection. We waited to order some drinks while two or three waiters dashed back and forth with trays of beverages to a thirsty and seated clientele.
These were then carried across to our table ? an attractive booth, beautifully laid with silverware, side plates and napkins for two.
Old rock and roll classics played on a loop ? Rolling Stones, Elvis and Stevie Wonder.
Waiting staff were smart and friendly, without being overbearing, helping us to choose where invited. Main courses from the a la carte menu on average cost ?13.
But there is an early bird set menu on until 7.30pm, so do not let price put you off. Sadly we?d missed that deal so I plumped for the vegetable hotpot (?13), with sweet red cabbage and granary bread. My partner went for the steak and kidney pudding (also ?13), served with chips and mushy peas.
Now let me stress that I?m not a vegetarian but Iwas quickly sold on the delightful description of my ?five-a-day? meal. The hotpot was well presented in a small oval white dish, topped with crispy slices of well-seasoned potato. On closer inspection the dish was placed on a napkin on a plate alongside my red cabbage.
But the mix of paper towel and brassica was not the real problem, rather the hotpot vegetables that were undercooked and flavourless. The cabbage was more tart than sweet, and even the granary bread, although dreamily light, tasted of little more than air.
I eyed up my partner?s dish with envy and snuck a taste ? it was satisfyingly stodgy, thick, meaty and well seasoned. Clearly I?d chosen badly.
Dinner for two with a large glass of house wine (?5.40) and a medium glass of the same (?4.10) came to ?35.50.
Note that a 10 per cent service charge is added.
Rating 3/5
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